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Buyers' essential used tips
Top tips for buying used

We team up with an RAC specialist to reveal eight essential tips for anyone buying a car second-hand

Everyone knows you need to check the clutch and brakes on a potential second-hand buy. But how do you actually do it? Identifying problem areas is the easy bit; examining them prop­erly is a job for the experts.

That’s why we’ve enlisted the help of John Gregory, a technical advisor at the RAC. He’s been with the breakdown firm for 25 years: first as a patrolman, then as a vehicle inspector. John takes us through eight essential checks for any used purchase.

See our RAC expert talk you through the used car checklist in video

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Documentation   Tyres   Bodywork   Clutch
1. Documentation
While it sounds simple, few potential buyers bother to make sure the car they are looking at matches its paperwork. “Most cars have a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) marked in two or three places – usually at the base of the windscreen and on the driver’s door – plus a stamp on the chassis,” explains John. “Yet many drivers don’t check all three against the logbook.”

Each mark should have the same 17-digit figure; if there are any missing, investigate further. If the engine number isn’t in the logbook, it could mean the car has been imported. “Once you’ve got the MoT serial number and the V5 issue date, you can check the MoT at VOSA’s website,” says John. “This will tell you when it expires, and list any advisory notes, so check these have been fixed.

“Finally, look at the service books. Find out who carried out the pre-delivery inspection – it could be a foreign garage – and make sure the details match the car.”


 
2. Tyres
Obviously, one of the first things you’re going to check is the rubber, but don’t simply look at the tread depth. “You can use worn tyres as negotiating tools, but also watch out for signs of uneven and abnormal wear, as well as cracks or bulges in the rubber,” explains John.

Are they only bald on one side? At the front, this could suggest the car needs a geometry check, although it’s more serious on rear wheels. “This can mean suspension components need replacing or that the car has been in an accident – which could be costly to repair,” our expert warns.

 
3. Bodywork
“It’s easy to get excited when you are buying a car, but be methodical or you could miss crucial problems,” continues John. Go all around the vehicle, checking the panel gaps and paint finish. “Try to look along the car – rather than directly at it – because that will help you pick up dents and imperfections,” he says.

Another tip is to check the seams where body panels join. Do they all look the same? If they’re different on one side of the car to the other, this could be evidence of a repair.

“Cosmetic fixes are not always detrimental,” he explains. “But you need to piece together as much of the car’s history as possible, because work on the body could signify dam­age to other parts of the vehicle.”

 
4. Clutch
First, carry out a static check. “There should be a small amount of free play at the top of the pedal’s travel,” says John. “But does it operate smoothly and release fully?” If not, or the pedal feels heavy and notchy, there could be wear within the mechanism.

On the road, John recommends you drive normally at first to make sure the clutch works as it should. Then put it under load by selecting a higher gear earlier, on a slight incline if possible, and accelerating. “If the revs rise, but you don’t gain speed, the clutch is slipping and could soon need replacing,” he adds.


 
Brakes   Electrics   Engine   Road test
5. Brakes
Do the basics first – so inspect the fluid level under the bonnet. “Then, check the servo works. Pump the pedal until it goes firm, and maintain the pressure as you start the engine. The pedal should gradually move away from you,” John recommends.

On the road, make sure the car pulls up straight under braking, and that it doesn’t move strongly to one side. Finally, if you can actually see the brakes, our technician advises you carry out a quick visual inspection.
“Even a novice will be able to spot signs of corrosion and scoring on the discs,” he says. While pads and discs are easily replaced, you can use any problems to negotiate a discount.

 
6. Electrics
John admits that checking the electronics isn’t easy. “Modern vehicles are complicated, so it’s essential to get to know the car,” he tells us.

“Turn on the ignition, and watch the warning lights illuminate. They should all come on, so if the vehicle has ABS and stability control fitted, those indicators will also show.”

Unscrupulous sellers have been known to remove the bulbs from warning lights to prevent buyers from spotting problems. So, if you don’t see one when you turn on the ignition, that means something is wrong and should sound warning bells.

If everything is in running order, they will all go out once you start the engine, so watch out for any that stay lit. “Once you’re satisfied all is okay, pull every lever and push every button to ensure all the other features are working properly,” says John.

 
7. Engine
“You’d be amazed how many cars we see where the oil level is so low it doesn’t even register on the dipstick!” the RAC man explains. He advises all would-be buyers to check the fluid, no matter how technically minded they are. If it’s low, there could be a leak (also check the driveway), or the engine may be burning oil. “You’re not just looking at the level, though,” says John.

“Check for evidence of other fluid leaks under the bonnet, and inspect all the reservoirs. While you’re there, search for evidence of body damage at the front end of the vehicle.”

“If there are rings round the bolts on the front wings, or if the paint has been scratched off the nuts, that could mean they’ve been realigned. So, has it been in an accident?” Soot and oily splatters on the rear of the car can also suggest engine wear.

 
8. Road test
On the road, you need to pay close attention. “Is the steering smooth and free of vibrations or wobbles?” asks John. “You also need to listen out for abnormal noises, so turn the stereo off until you get back!”

He advises a five or six-mile drive at the very least. This will be enough to get the engine hot. At the end of the test, listen for the cooling fan to ensure it has kicked in. “If the car was already up to temperature when you got in, the owner may have run it before you arrived to mask any cold-start problems,” warns John.

You also need to make sure you are actually insured to drive the vehi­cle. And always carry out a history check to confirm that it hasn’t been written-off or stolen, or has any outstanding finance logged against it.
“Every used car is someone else’s cast-off – you need to find out why,” concludes John. “It might simply be the owner fancying a change, but do your homework, and be ready to walk away if something doesn’t feel right. Another one will soon turn up.”

 
 
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