How to fix a Td5 warped exhaust - pictures

<span>Removing the manifold: The acoustic cover has been removed from the top of the engine by removing the three bolts, as has the trim over the top of the radiator and fan.</span>

<span>The air intake hose to the turbo charger is also removed by loosening the jubilee clip and unclipping from the air cleaner at the opposite end.</span>

<span>The tell-tale sooty deposits on this engine are found at the rear, where one stud has been pulled out of the cylinder head, with the threads ripped out.</span>

<span>Remove the nuts holding the manifold in place, using a 13 mm socket wrench. Some are difficult to get at and require a small spanner.</span>

With air conditioning, the drive belt is removed and the AC compressor unbolted and moved to one side. No need to break the refrigerant circuit.

<span>The turbocharger is unbolted from the exhaust manifold and eased left still attached to the exhaust downpipe, there’s sufficient flex to move it.</span>

<span>The exhaust manifold can be now eased off of the remaining studs and withdrawn carefully from the engine, holding the turbo clear all the while.</span>

<span>The old gasket is removed, note its condition. The gasket has split, and the material around the broken stud has disintegrated.</span>

<span>On this engine, all studs are being replaced. This quick method of removal involves welding the nut on each stud and turning it with a spanner.</span>

<span>Now that all studs have been removed, the mating surface on the cylinder head is carefully cleaned up using a solvent and fine emery paper.</span>

<span>The old manifold (bottom of picture) shows the soot staining around the rear port where the gap had opened up. The new manifold is seen above.</span>

<span>Fitting the new manifold: As the rear stud has been ripped from the cylinder head, an M10 stud will be fitted, so the hole is enlarged to 9 mm in preparation for re-threading.</span>

<span>The M10 tap is being turned into the hole using self-gripping pliers, as the space is too restrictive to use the full threading tool.</span>

<span>Two nuts are tightened together on the new stud to lock them so the stud can be tightened into the head. This is an alternative removal method, too.</span>

<span>The oversize M10 stud has been threaded into the cylinder and is ready to be tightened using a 17 mm spanner, before the nuts are removed.</span>

<span>In the remaining undamaged threaded holes, extra long M8 studs are fitted from the special Alive Tuning Uprated Td5 manifold stud kit.</span>

<span>Replacement manifold is having one hole drilled out to 10 mm to accommodate larger stud. Corresponding hole in manifold gasket is also enlarged.</span>

<span>The exhaust manifold is trial fitted to the studs to check that the enlarged hole is sufficient and that the other new extended studs are in alignment.</span>

<span>The new exhaust manifold gasket is placed over the studs on the cleaned and prepared cylinder head first. Note the thicker shorter M10 stud to the rear.</span>

<span>The replacement exhaust manifold is gently tapped home squarely over the new manifold studs and is nearly ready to be bolted down.</span>

<span>These spacer bushes, fitted between the manifold and the securing nut, allow for greater flexibility under expansion, giving a more reliable seal.</span>

<span>This cut down 13mm spanner is a great aid in getting the nuts turned onto the studs in some of the most restricted places at the cylinder head.</span>

<span>The nuts are tightened down progressively, working from the centre outwards in stages in order to achieve and even progressive clamping.</span>

<span>The Aerotight lock nuts that come in the Alive Tuning stud kit provide a firm secure fixing over the expansion bushes and look excellent.</span>

<span>That’s the manifold sorted. We’re now ready to refit the turbocharger and other components to complete the job.</span>