How to service your TD4 Freelander 2 - pictures

<span>While inside, the seat belt webbing is inspected for damage and the operation and security of all seat belt catches is checked.</span>

<span>Under the bonnet, the engine acoustic cover A, the battery and electrics cover B, and the air cleaner cover C, will need to be removed.</span>

<span>There are no less than four filters to be changed on the Freelander – the air filter, the oil filter, the fuel filter and the pollen filter.</span>

<span>The air cleaner cover is released with a 10mm socket. After 20,000 miles, the folds of this filter are well clogged with dirt and dust.</span>

<span>A fresh new filter is fitted in the air cleaner, with the mileage and date written on the side. The circled “B” indicates the service type.</span>

<span>The bolts holding the engine’s acoustic cover are loosened with a 10mm socket wrench, and the cover lifted off for access.</span>

<span>Fuel filter (arrowed) is at front of engine. The black plate bolted in front is released, then the four pipe ends are cleaned before disconnecting them.</span>

<span>The filter is removed after releasing the mounting bolts, and is drained of residual fuel, prior to disposal. Pipe ends are covered to keep dirt out.</span>

<span>The new filter is fitted, and three pipes reconnected. The front right pipe (with temp sensor), feeding the HP pump, is left off for priming.</span>

<span>Using a suction pump attached to the free output on the fuel filter, diesel fuel is pulled through to fill the filter and prime it.</span>

<span>The pipe is reconnected and the engine run at idle speed while Dee checks for fuel leaks from the unions and generally checks the engine.</span>

<span>The engine undertray (13m AF bolts) is detached to access the sump plug (21mm AF) and the engine oil is drained out into a container.</span>

<span>While the oil drains out, the underside is inspected for fluid leaks, damage to brake and fuel lines and wiring, and exhaust security.</span>

<span>This oil leak between the gearbox and power transfer unit was spotted after removing the engine undertray – it will be a warranty repair job.</span>

<span>Suspension bushes are checked using a pry bar, drive shaft gaiters are checked for splits, plus brake hoses, pads, discs, and tyre walls and treads.</span>

<span>With the oil drained, the oil filter cover is removed from under the front of the engine using a flexi-head ratchet with a shallow 27mm socket.</span>

<span>With the oil drained, the oil filter cover is removed from under the front of the engine using a flexi-head ratchet with a shallow 27mm socket.</span>

<span>The sump plug has been refitted with a new copper washer and six litres of fresh engine oil is poured in – Millers 5W30 Long Life.</span>

<span>&nbsp;A torch light shows the coolant level is near the lower mark, so it was topped up with antifreeze solution. The cap was tight, so was lightly lubricated.</span>

<span>After settling, the oil level is re-checked. The engine is then started briefly, switched off and after 5 minutes the level is checked again.</span>

<span>After cleaning oil from around the sump plug and checking that no oil was leaking from it, the engine undertray is refitted.</span>

<span>All five tyres are inspected around their circumference and both side walls, for damage and tread depth, and pressures checked.</span>

<span>Anti-seize spray grease is applied to door and bonnet hinges and catches, and to the hubs to prevent corrosion between the alloy wheels and the steel hubs.</span>

<span>The brake fluid reservoir is located under a cover near the windscreen on the right. It required a slight top up with Dot 4 brake fluid to correct level.</span>

<span>The windscreen washer fluid reservoir is filled right to the neck with a winter strength (to prevent freezing) solution of water and washer fluid.</span>

<span>The pollen filter is difficult to access and is reached from the front passenger footwell, behind this vertical rectangular&nbsp;</span><span class="skimlinks-unlinked">cover.The</span><span>&nbsp;pollen filter is difficult to ac

<span>After unclipping the cover the old pollen filter (fairly choked here) is pulled out and the replacement filter is fed in and the cover replaced.</span>

<span>With the service complete, the diagnostic computer is connected so that the service interval announcement indicator can be reset.</span>

<span>Finally, the service book is stamped and the details recorded and signed. You can sign the book after a DIY service, and keep the receipts as a record.</span>