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How to service your TD4 Freelander 2 - pictures

by: Auto Express team

27 Sep 2017

Go to: How to service your TD4 Freelander 2

Dee checks all the lights with an assistant outside the car observing, and confirms facia warning lamps are active and working.
While inside, the seat belt webbing is inspected for damage and the operation and security of all seat belt catches is checked.
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Under the bonnet, the engine acoustic cover A, the battery and electrics cover B, and the air cleaner cover C, will need to be removed.
There are no less than four filters to be changed on the Freelander – the air filter, the oil filter, the fuel filter and the pollen filter.
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The air cleaner cover is released with a 10mm socket. After 20,000 miles, the folds of this filter are well clogged with dirt and dust.
A fresh new filter is fitted in the air cleaner, with the mileage and date written on the side. The circled “B” indicates the service type.
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The bolts holding the engine’s acoustic cover are loosened with a 10mm socket wrench, and the cover lifted off for access.
Fuel filter (arrowed) is at front of engine. The black plate bolted in front is released, then the four pipe ends are cleaned before disconnecting them.
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The filter is removed after releasing the mounting bolts, and is drained of residual fuel, prior to disposal. Pipe ends are covered to keep dirt out.
The new filter is fitted, and three pipes reconnected. The front right pipe (with temp sensor), feeding the HP pump, is left off for priming.
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Using a suction pump attached to the free output on the fuel filter, diesel fuel is pulled through to fill the filter and prime it.
The pipe is reconnected and the engine run at idle speed while Dee checks for fuel leaks from the unions and generally checks the engine.
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The engine undertray (13m AF bolts) is detached to access the sump plug (21mm AF) and the engine oil is drained out into a container.
While the oil drains out, the underside is inspected for fluid leaks, damage to brake and fuel lines and wiring, and exhaust security.
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This oil leak between the gearbox and power transfer unit was spotted after removing the engine undertray – it will be a warranty repair job.
Suspension bushes are checked using a pry bar, drive shaft gaiters are checked for splits, plus brake hoses, pads, discs, and tyre walls and treads.
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With the oil drained, the oil filter cover is removed from under the front of the engine using a flexi-head ratchet with a shallow 27mm socket.
With the oil drained, the oil filter cover is removed from under the front of the engine using a flexi-head ratchet with a shallow 27mm socket.
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The sump plug has been refitted with a new copper washer and six litres of fresh engine oil is poured in – Millers 5W30 Long Life.
A torch light shows the coolant level is near the lower mark, so it was topped up with antifreeze solution. The cap was tight, so was lightly lubricated.
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After settling, the oil level is re-checked. The engine is then started briefly, switched off and after 5 minutes the level is checked again.
After cleaning oil from around the sump plug and checking that no oil was leaking from it, the engine undertray is refitted.
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All five tyres are inspected around their circumference and both side walls, for damage and tread depth, and pressures checked.
Anti-seize spray grease is applied to door and bonnet hinges and catches, and to the hubs to prevent corrosion between the alloy wheels and the steel hubs.
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The brake fluid reservoir is located under a cover near the windscreen on the right. It required a slight top up with Dot 4 brake fluid to correct level.
The windscreen washer fluid reservoir is filled right to the neck with a winter strength (to prevent freezing) solution of water and washer fluid.
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The pollen filter is difficult to access and is reached from the front passenger footwell, behind this vertical rectangular cover.The pollen filter is difficult to ac
After unclipping the cover the old pollen filter (fairly choked here) is pulled out and the replacement filter is fed in and the cover replaced.
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With the service complete, the diagnostic computer is connected so that the service interval announcement indicator can be reset.
Finally, the service book is stamped and the details recorded and signed. You can sign the book after a DIY service, and keep the receipts as a record.
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